90 Mile Beach

Day 1 to 3

It is really good to be on the Trail. Although, 90 Mile Beach is a tough way to start. Typically the walk takes between 4 and 5 days to complete. However, the first section of the track has recently been closed due to track damage. So bypassed this section via the road and started at Te Paki Stream. This also means one day less on the beach.

It is a little unfortunate to start such an epic long distance path with a bypass, but this provides an excellent excuse to come back in a few years, with Caroline, and complete the missing section. At least this is my positive spin.

Mum and I did drive to the most Northern point and took the obligatory photos at the lighthouse. We did not linger, as I was keen to get on the trail and make camp as early as possible. So, back in the car for the short drive South to Te Paki Stream and the 3km trail to 90 Mile Beach.

As I shoulder my backpack to set-off, I discovered my first preparation mistake. We have two emergency locator devices which also allow tracking, and I grabbed the wrong one when I left home. A stupid mistake, however they are identical. Caroline performed a little “Trail Magic” and remotely activated the locator beacon a few hours after I started. Very good to know that this safety device is working. 

The first day was nice. Started walking barefoot in the stream, putting on boots for the 20 kms along the beach to Bluff campground. Easy hiking as it was overcast with a light breeze to my back. Arrived in good time, so took a dip in the Tasman Sea and used the freshwater shower to rinse off the day and the salt water. As the sun was setting, one other hiker arrived. Thought I would have the place to myself, but not quite.

The second day was longer and in the sun. And although I wore my hat the entire time, and wore sunscreen, still managed to get a slight sunburn around my neck. Grrrrrr. It was 30 kms to Hukatere Lodge, but these slipped by quickly and it was nice to walk alone. Not much to see, but still very nice. Seagulls, sea shells, dead sea creatures washed up onto the beach, sand dunes were the entertainment. The Lodge is very nice, and first chance to really interact with other walkers. One lady had pretty bad blisters, and it seems most people get blisters. So far, I am blister free. But I do stop every 10 kms and take off my boots to let them air dry quickly. I went to bed wondering if I would complete 90 Mile Beach in 1 day or take it more relaxed and take 2 days.

Day 3 was tougher. The weather turned with a Fresh Southerly breeze which was in my face the entire day. And it was raining on and off, so that was a little annoying. I stayed dry by wearing my rain gear. I ended up doing a double, and did not regret it at all. 32 kms later I pulled into Ahipara around 3pm, and glad to setup my tent followed very quickly by heading to the local fish and chip shop for an early dinner. Spend the evening relaxing in the lovely common area.

The beach and the constant crashing of the waves was nice, but glad to have it behind me. The sand gets into everything, so I will not miss that at all. Surprised that there was only one other walker on my schedule. A large rain and wind weather event is being forecast, and walkers are gravitating towards Kaitaia to escape the storm. This is my plan as well, so will meet many other walkers there.

Cape Reinga and mum.
The Start. I soon took the Crocs off and went barefoot instead. Too much sand.
First campsite. Flat and running water, not bad.
First sunset. Very nice way to start the journey.
Lots of trucks looking to harvest Spat when the wind blows them onto the coast.
Life and death litters the beach
Staying dry
My reward for getting off the beach. Fish and Chips